경사면을 입사하는 불규칙파랑의 방향 비대칭 매개변수 및 최대 방향분포 매개변수

초록

Multidirectional random waves that obliquely approach the shore were found to become directionally asymmetric due to refraction. The directional asymmetry was expressed in terms of the asymmetry parameter which is related to the maximum spreading parameter (smax). In this study, we calculate variation of both the asymmetry and maximum spreading parameters at different water depths for various cases of incident wave angles and maximum spreading parameters in deep water. These values are different from Goda and Suzuki (1975) who neglected directional asymmetry of waves. In calculating directional asymmetry and maximum spreading parameters, we use the JONSWAP spectrum (Hasselmann et al., 1973) and Lee et al.’s (2010) directional distribution function. The processes and results are nondimensionalized with significant wave height, peak frequency and peak wave length in deep water.

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